Morocco at last... but only just

Leaving Algericas (not nearly as photogenic as as Gibraltar) the ferry across to the Spanish enclave of Ceuta on the north coast of Morocco takes 35 minutes. Sort of a Spanish Gibraltar, but they don't like to make such a fuss over it ;-) Ceuta has been occupied by just about everyone; Phoenicians, Romans, Visigoths, Byzantines, Moors, Portuguese and the Spanish have held on to it since 1580. Nice castle in the middle and a huge garrison (just in case).... and sadly for me, very few hotels. I was hoping to take a proper look at it but logistics put paid to that idea.

I'm in Morocco tonight but only just. I had to cross the border to find a place to sleep. I ignored the advice in the Rough Guide to book ahead if you want to stay in Ceuta and thought there would be something....but I tried everywhere from doss houses to the swankiest hotel in town...nothing doing. I considered camping, but there is no campsite and when you take look at the terrain ( very hilly )...and some of the locals (:-0), you soon come to the conclusion that that camping is not a sensible proposition. So that left me with the option of tacking the bureaucracy at the border at dusk and hoping to find something...or taking a 60 euro ferry back with my tail between my legs so I went for it and hit pay dirt. Would you believe it, 5km over the border and an IBIS hotel with an unsecured wireless connection, a hot shower and some god-awful Moroccan red wine. I got chatting Moroccan Restauranteur got lots of good advice and an invite to visit his family in Fes and taste his Mother's Tagine. Result!

The whole reason for this late/early arrival in Morocco is my decision to take the long road here.. I stayed last night with friends Seonaid & Eric McLeod in Marbella (where I once again repacked and left even more crap behind that I hope I wont need) and saw that there was an interesting looking road to a town called Ronda. Rather than pop down the Motorway like a sensible chap I decided to take scenic route. This turned out to be a diversion along some of the best motorcycling roads I have ever seen. Bend after lovely bend for 50 miles.....bikers, get your gear on and get down here. And Ronda is a pretty impressive place too. Lovely castle, lots of pretty buildings and an amazing location. The town is split in two by an enormous fissure with a single bridge between the two halves.